Real Deal Weathering Kit
As a Master Model Railroader and model judge, I know that many model competitions are won or lost by the finish and weathering. I apply multiple layers of Com-Art Colours to flawlessly produce a superior depth of color. Com-Art Colours allow me to achieve prototypical results and award-winning finishes on my models.
Here are a few things that are important to follow using the Com-Art Real Deal Weathering Kit.
HOW THE COM-ART COLOURS WORK
Light Dust can be used for very light shades of dirt or ballast, or to simulate a light coat of very fine dirt. It also can be used to make the white or off-white lettering in signs, model train cars, or armor to appear to be streaking. Lastly, it can be used to create the light overcoat that makes a tank or train car appear to be sun faded. Soft Dirt is a medium brown color that can be used to show dirt in the treads of tanks, darker or heavier layers of dirt on rolling stock or wheelsets, general dirt on structures or vehicles, and even darker fleshtones.
Soft Dirt may be combined with Opaque Raw Sienna to create a more yellow mud hue. Fertile Soil is a sable dark brown color that can be used to show dirt in the tread or on the side of tanks. It also can be used to create the splash-back of dirt on the side of a building near the ground that occurs from rain. Fertile soil can be combined with Transparent Smoke to create a dark black-brown color that is ideal for creating skid marks from vehicles.
Dark Rust is the darkest of rust colors that would be used to create the initial streak on an older rust streak or spot. It can be mixed with Light Rust and Opaque Raw Sienna to create intermediate colors or to change the hue.
Dark Rust mixed with Transparent Smoke makes a nice grimy wash to create brake dust on vehicles or as an overall grimy wash on iron oxide rolling stock. Light Rust is the lighter component of the rust spectrum. It easily creates the stains that occur from water dripping across a heavily rusted spot. Opaque Raw Sienna is a wonderful color to create the fresh, bright yellow-orange rust spots on metals.
It also makes an excellent color to adjust any of the rust hues. The dirt colors also can be adjusted with the Raw Sienna to provide a more orange-yellow hue to the dirt.
Blue-grey Smoke imitates the bluish-grey soot frequently seen on the end of cannons and guns from the black powder. It is also found on items that would have used anthracite or blue coal for energy. The soot from a steam locomotive traditionally has this blue-grey color. Additional uses include old industrial smoke stacks, roundhouses and tunnel portals, and even chimneys on structures.
Transparent Smoke can be used for the standard smoke and soot on vehicles, structures and even scenery. In addition, it can be used as a base coat or a wash on figures to create the shadows in the folds of clothing or the relief on faces. Transparent Smoke also can be used to darken any of the colors in the palette. Old Oil combines yellows, browns, and blacks to create the characteristic color of old oil or dirty cup grease. It can be used on surfaces to create an oily, greasy or grungy appearance. This includes journal boxes on model train trucks or the tread mechanisms on tanks and armor. Old Oil can be lightened with Opaque White or Light Dust to create an aged concrete appearance that can be used throughout your scenery.
Opaque White is excellent to use to lighten any of the colors in the palette. It also can be used to create the illusion of streaked white lettering on armor or rolling stock. Very light layers of Opaque White can be used to fade black lettering or to sun fade vehicles with a lighter base color.
Creating Rust Streaks
Creating Rust Streaks tend to drip downward because gravity pulls the water down. Dripping rust spots can be created by using a pin or tiny brush to place a dab of Fertile Soil on your structure or vehicle where you want the rust spot. Let it dry for a minute or so and then place a dot of dark or light rust over it.
Using a dry paintbrush, stroke LIGHTLY in a downward motion over the still-wet rust color. The result is a rust spot that has dirt and rust stains running down from it.
Three-dimensional rust, grease and dirt is easy to achieve with the
Real Deal Weathering Kit. Simply take a fine brush and dip it into the color of your choice. Then pick up a tiny amount of baking soda on your wet brush and placing it on the item.
Allow it to completely dry before adding any other colors to define the rust or dirt area. Seal the buildup in place with a dab of acrylic matte varnish. Sealing the weathering colors Once you are happy with your weathering, you may seal the paints in several ways.
Matte or gloss acrylic varnishes may be lightly airbrushed over the item to seal the paint. Acrylic varnishes also can be mixed into the weathering paints to create permanence in a single-stage paint. This is particularly useful for creating the shiny appearance that oil or grease would have. Matte and gloss acrylic varnishes also can be mixed together to create varying degrees of a satin finish.
Tips and Techniques by Leslie Eaton
These weathering colors are comprised of many different pigments, some heavier than others. The pigments may separate into layers in the bottle while sitting so be sure to shake the bottle well before using and periodically while using. You may want to use a soft paint brush to stir the paint from the sides and bottom of the bottle.
These colors are designed to be intermixed to create intermediate hues allowing you to have colors that are unique to the item you are weathering. Lighter shades can be made by adding Opaque White or Light Dust. Darker shades can be achieved by adding Transparent Smoke or even Fertile Soil. Enjoy experimenting and playing with mixing the colors.
Apply your weathering using numerous light layers of color. This will allow you to achieve a greater depth of color and help you to avoid applying too much weathering. Applying layers of diff erent colors also allows you to achieve the most realistic appearance to your models.